Making "Ceol Binn"

"Ceol Binn"

 

I'm making "Ceol Binn" a mandolin with a European Spruce top and English Walnut back, sides and neck for Malcolm Banks.

 

Last updated 23/5/2018.

 

The main components are assembled.

Some "cunning plans".

The English Walnut sides are thicknessed and a hole for the "porthole" soundport cut in the bass side using a 35mm Forstner bit.

Here's the result.

The Ovangkol centre of the "porthole" is cut and tested for fit.

The neck curves on the sides are bent by hand on the hot pipe and then the sides are bent in this jig. The sides are sprayed lightly with water, wrapped in brown paper and sandwiched as slat, side, slat, heating blanket, slat and the neck end clamped down to the bending form. The blanket is switched on and when hot enough the lower bout shape is bent.

After fine tuning on the hot pipe and some initial trimming here's the bent sides in the mould.

The Ovangkol "porthole" ring is glued to an Ovangkol backing ring using hot hide glue.

The "porthole" is then cut out using a 25mm Forstner bit.

Here's the result.

The "porthole" is then glued into the side using fish glue.

The two pieces of the American Black Walnut neck block are glued together using hot hide glue.

The slot for the fingerboard support is then cut, the neck block shaped to the side contours and a thin English Walnut veneer strip stuck on the rear face. Then the two 5mm holes are drilled for the carbon fibre internal braces and finally the 7mm bolt hole is drilled.

The American Black Walnut tail block has two 5mm holes drilled for the carbon fibre rods.

The American Black Walnut tail block is then shaped to the side curvature and the Ovangkol end graft glued on using hot hide glue.

The sides are then glued to the neck-block with fish glue using this jig.

The two 5mm carbon fibre buttress braces are then attached using epoxy.

The sides are then glued to the tail block together with black/ white/ black purfling using fish glue.

The European Spruce top is initially thicknessed, jointed and glued up using hot hide glue and the tent method.

The English Walnut back is initially thicknessed, jointed and glued up using hot hide glue and the tent method.

The English Walnut central rosette ring is cut using the circle cutting jig . . .

. . . with this result.

Then a rosette channel is cut in the top . . .

. . . with this result.

The English Walnut rosette ring and black/ white/ black inner and outer purflings are test fitted and glued in using white pva glue.

Here's the completed rosette with the top cut close to final shape.

The European Spruce soundhole patch is glued on using hot hide glue.

Then the soundhole is routed out.

Here's the result.

Next the Lutz spruce A Frame braces are then glued on using hot hide glue, bass side first . . .

. . . followed by the treble side.

The Lutz spruce main ladder brace is profiled to a 13' radius, notched to fit the A Frame braces and then is glued on the top using hot-hide glue.

Next the transverse brace is glued in after it has been notched to fit over the A Frame braces.

Finally the small brace behind the soundhole patch is glued on using hot-hide glue.

The back is marked for the position of the braces. The Lutz Spruce back X braces are profiled to a 10' radius and notched. The centre strip is notched and the first X brace glued on in the go-bar deck using hot hide glue . . .

. . . followed by the second.

The lower bout ladder brace is profiled to a 10' radius glued on using hot hide glue.

The sides are profiled to match the back's curvature and the American Black Walnut reverse-kerfed linings glued on using fish glue.

The sides are profiled to match the top's curvature and the American Black Walnut reverse-kerfed linings glued on using fish glue.